⚡️DIY Powerwall Project – ep5 – Cell Packing (2019) 6 Replies Cells are tested and sorted, time to put them in the cell holders. There is an online tool to help.
Yeah those are 1.0 mm alright, at least I was close
One more question, this one pertains to Xlights….
Somehow or another, while setting up my model on a picture of my house, one
of the “Poly lines” (one outline of my garage) ended up on the tail end of the
channels, I may have deleted it and added another later(which is probably the
situation here) is there any way to rearrange the order to correct the “out of time”
issue I’m having? Or do I simply start over again?
I’m not sure I fully follow the question, but you can change the start channel for a model.
Just to fully explain the situation, as I played the sequence through, all the models were in sequence
until it reached the last part of my model (the second garage door outline polyline) that particular
polyline seemed to be lagging,
I’ll try re-assigning the start channel for that polyline.
My insulator friends hooked me up with my Lexan for the wreath ( which coincidently would not fit in my car, no matter how I tried to get it in) guess
I’ll bring the wife’s car one day this week and take it home. I also got some smaller sections of Lexan to mount my electronics too that will go in the box.
Free Lexan you can’t get home. There’s a problem I’d like to have! LOL!
How goes it? Hope your Dog Lexi is doing better! I just ordered my first set of pixels for my project.
I’m going to run 5 volt pixels first, if I have any issues, I’ll switch to the 12 volt models. I just bought 1,000
and two power supplies to begin with.
One question I have for you: I know you can add power injection for each 50 nodes (5 volts- assuming 100% brightness, which will never be the case for my set up) my question is, how many times can you power inject from the same power supply, or will I have to calculate the power requirements based off my total number of 5 volt pixels (.3 watts each)? I have an idea of using a “Buss block” at the top of my mega tree, to attach all the power injection wires (I’m adding a strand of 18 gauge multi strand wire, to the top of the tree, or to each boscoyo strip, or every other strip to route the power to. the “Buss Block” I am describing is an item our technicians use here at work for their instruments: Phoenix Contacts-
here is an image of the buss block I’m going to use:
Here is an image of the fuse block I’m going to use, (only because the price was right- Free, free Free free Free… LOL:-)
the buss bar contacts can be hooked up independently, or connected in series…..the have a screw to close window just like the falcon controller connections (only larger) bootlace ferrule connections.
(I ordered 1,000 one mm boot laced ferrules also) if you send me an email:
Benjamin.L.Smith@hotmail.com I can send you some pictures of my progress, and of course, I’m open to constructive criticism 🙂
I’ve been working on my display in xlights and I’m still a little confused as to placing the timing marks on the beats and timing section, perhaps you could explain that a little better for me?
Thanks again for the remarkable work you do and looking forward to your reply!
The goal of power injection is to have the same (or similar) voltage at both ends of the string. It doesn’t need to be more complicated than that. You add as many lines from the power supply as needed. Everything affects the power injection points so you have to experiment with placement. I’ve not used those bus blocks, but if you are comfortable with them then OK. Just make sure they can handle the current you’ll be using through them. They look like they are industrial grade so probably fine, but you’re kinda on your own here. As for the xLights timing marks, they are merely a guide to help you place effects. The timing marks should correspond with changes in the music. Some people do them on the beats (a ton of marks) while others use passages of music (longer effects and the easier approach)(somewhere between 5 and 10 seconds apart). It’s personal preference how you do it, but once you lay them down, it’s good to go back and make sure they hit where you really want them and a frame ahead is better if it occurs in the middle (you may have to zoom all the way in to tell). You can move them once they are there. Get the timing marks right before laying down effects. I’ll send you an email. Jeff